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Peak Mountain 3

Luke Slingwalker

FA Gary Gray, Doug Davis, '93
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route will take some route finding ability and the discipline to not head for the bolted routes that bracket it. IF YOU ARE CLIPPING BOLTS YOU ARE OFF ROUTE. The easiest climbing and best traditional pro goes up between the bolted routes.

Location

Approach is the same as If You Bolt It They Will Come. Start from rock above the main ledge on the far left side of the cliff face. P1) Climb chickenheads past all fixed gear to a big ledge. P2) Step across chimney and pull on to face and work your way on the easiest ground to the top of the tower. A set of chains over to the right of the route when you are looking down it are a little spooky to get to. A 99ft. rappel gets you barely to a set of anchors. From these another single rope rap will get you to the bottom of a big chimney. As you exit this drop down and left 100 feet to the next short chimney. Scramble up this to get back to where you started.

Protection

Standard rack and lots of long runners for chickenheads.