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Middle Tower – Daughter
Description
The third pitch on this route is not to be missed! This route begins between Mother Tower and Middle Tower (3rd tower from the south).
Pitch 1: 5.9, ~80 feet.
From the tall southeast side of the tower, begin up a hand crack left of the wide first pitch of Rising Sons. Climb the crack for 50 feet and traverse right (1 bolt) back to the wide crack. Two more bolts lead to a belay.
Pitch 2: 5.10, ~80 feet.
Traverse up and right to a dihedral that has a crack between the towers. Once near the top of a pillar, traverse right to the base of the obvious splitter on Middle Tower.
Pitch 3: 5.11, ~100 feet
. The money pitch. Thin, tricky moves lead to a tight hands splitter which is a little tough due to a waxy veneer. An exposed roof leads to easier crack climbing but with a little softer rock. Finish with some technical face climbing protected by ~7 bolts (might be more?). I had to pull through a short section of bolts at a blank section which felt hard for 5.11. One final sandy mantle leads to the summit.
Rappel down the northwest face with a single 60M rope.
Protection
Double rack with with extra #0.5-1 cams.