Bit Bender

This climb reminds me of the Voo's Captain Nemo. Although this roof is shorter, it's much harder. Also, don't blow a bad RP while you're drilling or you'll bend bits.

Pitch 1, 5.11d.

Start up an easy flake leading to a short lieback ending in a mantel. The crux begins after the mantel. Climb up a flared crack (poor gear), clip the bolt, and traverse right out of the roof (crux). The traverse has terrible feet, tricky sequences, gear that is tenuous to place, and hands that are less than ideal. After the burly traverse, continue up through a crystal pocketed crack to a small ledge before a widening crack. Belay here.

Pitch 2, 5.7.

Fire up the widening crack (#4) to a ledge. This offwidth section can be made easier by using good face holds. From the ledge, climb up another wide crack where some offwidth technique is required. Belay off gear, and then rappel via Emerald Isle's anchors.

This is the only obvious crack line on southwest side of the Emerald.

A double set of cams - BD C4 #0.75 2X is essential for the crux. Take 1-2 #4s as well for belays and upper OW.