Joke the Chicken

P1: climb 100' (yes, 100') to the first bolt over 5.7 face/slab, then past another couple bolts to big horizontal, belay here.

P2: Climb up from the horizontal to a flake and roof. Load the flake with small TCUs and/or tricams, maybe a stopper (anything that will fit), and get ready to do work. Pull the roof into the watergroove (strenuous and technical), then work up to the bolt on the left. Clip this and make a sigh of relief. Climb up the steep water groove past a few bolts and some gear to a bolted belay. Rappel.

Far left end of the crag. Second route from the end.

Couple QDs, a screamer or two, light rack to #2 Camalot.