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Peak Mountain 3

Lava Falls

FA Holmgren, Matthews, Vandevere, 1982
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Two magnificent pitches of wild stemming up a spooky black groove on the Balconies. Pitch one involves steep knob climbing between sometimes sparsely-placed bolts. An occasional knob can be tied off, but the steep crux comes between a gap in protection opportunities.

Pitch 2 requires more hip-cramping stemming up the water-hardened chute. This pitch is not to be missed.

As of 2020, all the bolts on the first pitch have been replaced as well a the last bolt on pitch 2. Some loose rock is present.

Location

Lava Falls can be found in the middle of the Balconies. The route starts in a stand of trees just uphill from the Smiling Simian. Follow the black gully that pinches off at the top.

Protection

11 bolts on the first pitch and 4 bolts on pitch 2. Quickdraws and full length runners for tying off knobs and clipping wandering bolts. Bolted anchors on both pitches.