Brevitata

What a great finish to

Rincon

! Take

Rincon

(5.11a) to

Bat's Ass Dihedral

(5.11a) to Bevitata (5.11a). Enough hard dihedral for you?

This climb is a definite 2* and protects well enough and has good rests to be a great on-sight attempt for people just at this grade, provided their gear-placing skills are descent. The crux is burley, but it's all there and is not sustained/mental. It is also under-climbed, so don't expect a line for it.

To get to Brevitata, climb Rincon, then climb

Bat's Ass Dihedral

,

Kangaroo Tail

,

Cuban Bluegrass

, or

Ventura Highway

to reach the next ledge up. As an option, you may also walk West from the top of P3 of

Rincon

, then scramble up to approach the base of this right-facing, ever-steepening dihedral, the dark pin is difficult to see from below. The rock on the climb itself is as good as it gets and STICKY. The climb overall starts as a low-angle, right-facing open book corner. In a parabolic curve, the angle of the corner goes from perhaps a 75 degree slab to a 15 or 20 degree overhang. The crux being at the steepest part of the overhang, where a fixed pin gives mental assistance and confidence to the leader.Scramble to the bottom of the corner and set a good belay off of some hand-sized cams, then climb up on stoppers and small cams if desired, to where the corner is vertical- set some tiny nuts and climb up to an under-cling and clip the pin. Back up the pin later by putting the 1.5" TCU in the under-cling in the corner just before you leave it for the crux. Do the gut-buster crux off of some small feet (smears) and a weird finger-lock to reach up and left to a great under-cling on the steep face to the left... now do the gut-buster crux on stems or smears for feet to hit the thank-god hold and easier ground and gear. Height should not be a factor, as all of the wall offers dimples/pimples for feet... none of them good enough to compromise ideal body position for. You can belay from above on a large, solid tree.

To descend, scramble down just to the West and intersect the trail as from '

Over The Hill

' after a little loose rock. Alternatively, one could add an anchor of webbing rings up here and save a little excitement. Remember that there are hordes of climbers below, and try not to knock off rocks.

A set of TCUs, particularly including a 1.5" piece, and a set of stoppers including RPs, BD copper-steels or HB anchors. A "pretty good" pin is at the crux. The pin is a 17 year old 2/3-driven Lost Arrow. It seems solid.The 5.10 moves are on thin gear (tiny brass/steel)and a 1.5" HB 3-cam was placed 2' below the pin (solid) but was pretty strenuous to place and clip and difficult to arrange such that it did not effect a crux hold.