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Peak Mountain 3

Koka

FA Ken Stanton
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Description

I'm surprised this obvious trad route was never given a name or posted as a climb, perhaps because nearly all climbers at Mt. St. Helena prefer sport climbing and seldom climb trad routes. The route starts just left of Kola, which inspired the name I've dubbed this climb. Climb up the offwidth crack (1 star) and then the hand crack (4 stars) to the Kola anchor. Surprisingly there are very few face holds beside the hand crack, which requires some hand jamming. The crux is pulling a bulge at the start of the hand crack and then hanging on to place gear.

Location

Starts at the offwidth crack just left of Kola.

Protection

A quickdraw for a bolt (which can be skipped) and a set of cams up to 5 inches (up to 2 inches if you sling a chockstone).