Rotwand Route

This is "an historic route" according to some. It is "essential" to others who believe a Rotwand route is a necessary inclusion on an Eldo climber's resume.

Since all the rock looks essentially the same, junky, the start is difficult to pinpoint with accuracy. However, it is about 70' or so to the left of where the southernmost point of the cliff hits the path that traverses along the river. A very indistinct climber's trail leaves the river path about 30 feet before you would have to duck under or climb over a fallen tree that crosses the river path. This 30' climber's trail takes you directly to the foot of the route. The route takes the line of least resistance.

Climb up and slightly right for about 30 feet to a big ledge (5.4). Traverse left about 50 feet to a good sized tree that is an obvious landmark from the ground (5.4). Then head up a left-facing corner system, over some small overhangs to the top. (5.7)

I believe the seriousness rating for those with experience on imperfect rock is closer to an S. The rock is bad but not as bad as reputation has it. Test the holds, weight equally distributed, don't pull out/pull down, and step up more than pull on the handholds. This is good training for the big limestone walls of the world. (

e.g

. Canadian Rockies).

One more item worth mentioning: "Sick Mic" Fairchild has done 120 laps on the Rotwand, many of them alone, the last when he graciously showed me this route.

A standard Eldo rack.