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Peak Mountain 3

The Nose

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Description

A stand-out crack on the lower NW prow of the Citadel. This pitch makes an excellent start to the NW ridge route. The crux is the clean, slightly leaning crack, which requires a thin hands/finger sized move to gain a small ledge. Ignore the poot slings on the ledge and continue up the crack system on steep but easier face climbing. The angle then eases up and you can belay anywhere on the spacious ledge which is also the top of Finger Zinger.

Location

The prominent crack is easy to spot, on the NW buttress of the Citadel. It's one of the first climbs visible from the approach. The start is around the corner from Finger Zinger slightly on the western face.

Protection

Standard alpine rack will suffice, and having some cams in the finger/small-hand size is good for the crux.