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Peak Mountain 3

Tick Itch

FA Terry Kennedy & Gary Skaar 1978
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb the face for a few moves and move right into the wavy crack. Follow good cracks around right of a small roof. Continue up the narrow ramp, passing a few good rest stances and good pro. About 2/3 of the way up, slot the perfect keyhole nut placement, and say goodbye to protection (minus 1 sketchy BD 0.3) for about 25'. Don't fall. Cheer loudly as you reach the hand crack again just below the belay ledge. 120'

This goes at 5.8 in both local guidebooks, but it is harder than both Sparerib and Zig Zag.

Descent:

Rappel from chains. 60m rope would probably make it to the ground with stretch. We used a 70m.

Location

Start on the corner of the buttress where hand/fist crack leads up a ramp. About 10' right of Zig Zag, and maybe 100' right of Spare Rib. Route ascends a ramp/crack over a prominent tan-ish colored south facing wall with lots of flakes/features.

Protection

Double cams to 3" with one 4" piece, nuts. Offset cams very useful on this pitch. Chain anchor (shared with start of Piecrust).