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Peak Mountain 3

Gold Nugget

FA Bindner et al
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb the face to the left of the middle Golden Tower with a few varied cams to start and the rest is bolts.

Contrary to the unclear guidebook statement it can NOT be rappelled with one 60m rope. It could if you include the lower top anchors to climbers left and on last rappel are willing to carefully rappel into the chimney and then down climb low 5th class terrain unroped from there. Not even sure a 70m would make it but it would get you to easier down climbing.

To climb you can start up to the first bolt along features on the face closer to the tower or along a crack further from it at about the same difficulty. The bolted face below the first anchors is fairly sustained at 9+/10-. (There are no lower anchors on 1st pitch as might seem from guidebook).

Location

Do not try to hike straight up to the wall. Either do a short bushwhack from before the far west end of the wall, west of thick alder stand, to gain open slabs and wander up avoiding manzanita, or walk to east end of the wall and skirt thorny brush back up.

Find the obvious central tower at the wall and climb the face to the left of it.

Protection

Light set of cams and as much as 10 draws