- Edit (TBD)
Description
Great route with an easy approach for the Organs. First two pitches are shared with "Mixed Nuts and Raisins" but as of 2/25/18 this doesn't have a topo, so we added details. The last pitch is really good and the namesake of the route.Pitch 1: 5.9 50m. Start at a south side of Lesser Spire near a tree (see picture). Traverse left across the slab and through a healthy bush to gain a dihedral with hands/fist crack, follow the crack to a giant ledge. We built an anchor at a large detached flake, but it is also possible to belay from rap anchors left of the ledge.Pitch 2: 5.10 45m. The whole pitch works it's way through strange offwidths. (see picture) Start crawling through the boulder and head to the corner. Climb left of the corner, then straight up to find an old bolt (shoes are hanging here in pic). From here trend left working your way in and out of offwidths until hitting a tree. Keep climbing right and change to a southern aspect of the spire, past old bolts and past the old belay station. Continue right on easier terrain to a huge ledge with a tree and bushes below the obvious final pitch. While not too hard, the cruxes are all proper 5.10 OW climbing.Pitch 3: 40m 5.11+. This is the "Fisura del Cielo" what you came for! Sustained crack climbing through a small Bombay roof gains the beautiful crack that starts steep with fingerlocks in a dihedral and continuously wanders up until pinching out. The Climb gets steep and thins out. Save a #1 camalot for the final crack placement.Once the crack peters out, undercling, clip a bolt, savor the exposure , and perform a heroic deadpoint left to small holds. From here either go straight up on a thin slab, or tick tack through positive crimps heading right. Climb to the bolt, and continue on thin climbing to the anchors.Rap the route.Or top out the spire, Scramble across the summit blocks heading east and drop down the north side down grassy ledges funneling to a tree. Rap from here East to a slabby ledge. Then scramble back upwards and south to another tree with rap slings and rings at the ridge, rap SE to the saddle between ORP and L Spire saddle.
Location
Halfway up the ORP and L SPire Gully, this climb starts behind a tree shown in a picture. Before Cacahuate.
Protection
Double ropes a must. Doubles up to 4, since P2 is wide. P3 eats #.75 & #1 camalots, on the FA we brought 3 each.
Routes in Lesser Spire
- 4Fisura del Cielo5.11+Trad