Irish Creme

Start in the center of the gray face. Start up the center of the face (5.9) to reach a crack system (look for a small cam placement about 10' up. Soon you'll reach a right arching crack- follow this up and right to 2 pitons (optional hanging belay here, or before starting the diagonal crack). A 5.10+ move or two with dishes and poor handholds leads to a slot large enough for a fist size cam. From here, about 15' of unprotected 5.10 face allows you to reach the next place for pro (both guides say there is a bolt here- but we didn't see one- don't count on it being there). The climb eases and you'll soon reach a right-leaning ledge; follow this for 15', then climb unprotected 5.9 face to a 2-bolt anchor.

Rappel the route with 2 ropes. Anchors at top of Irish Creme are about 120' to a ledge. It is possible to descend using a single 60m rope by easy down-climbing in a wide chimney.

Fun exciting climbing with just enough need to climb above gear to get your attention.

This climb is about 80' left of Black Velvet on a smooth gray face set back a little. It's just left of a broken left facing corner left of Lowenbrau Light. Look for a right arching crack- this feature is 1/3 of the way up the climb.

1 to 2 sets cams (with doubles in the hand sizes), 1 set nuts. A 2 bolt anchor is at the top.