- Edit (TBD)
Description
This bolted climb sails up the vast blank canvas on the West Face of Steamboat. Unlike Through The Never, few cracks on the starboard side of Steamboat are available.
Pitch #1: Follow the bolt line up the vertical and sustained "Starboard" side. Ends at a small ledge with a 3 bolt belay. 5.10, 35m.
Pitch #2: Trend up and right to a ledge bypassing a huge block firmly seated on the ledge, then trend back left up a more broken up section. Sharp rock! Tape may be indicated. Two bolt belay in an alcove. 5.10, 15m.
Pitch #3: Pass a small overhang and scramble to the top of the wall. 5.8, 15m.
The first pitch is equipped for rappel. After that, it seems easier and safer to walk off the top as for Through The Never is recommended if climbing the entire route. Pitches #2 and #3 may be easily linked, but communication may be difficult.
Location
20 meters around the corner to the west face from Through The Never, find the glue in bolts that mark the start of the route. Approach time from the car parked below the face: 10 minutes.
From the turn off from the paved Highway 50-6 for Ibex, continue on the unpaved graded road past the turn off for Ibex, and pass the turn off for Blind Valley (8.5 miles), pass the turn off for Painter Pot Holes (13.6 miles and the best approach to Masada), and continue (for a total of 16.3 miles) to the turn off left marked "Steamboat Pass". From the Pass, the road winds its way north to Steamboat and the approach is clear.
Camping is great and the views to Crystal Mountain and Masada are fantastic.
Protection
Generously protected with Glue In Bolts for the most part. Take at least 15 QDs or Alpine Draws for Pitch #1.