- Edit (TBD)
Description
The Eagles said it best... “Everbody’s talking about the New Squid In Town”....
New Squid climbs the obvious strip of rock just right of
Squid Kid
. It has good rock and fun movement for the entire pitch.
Fun slabbing begins off a grassy ledge and leads to an obvious right to left rising flake, exiting the flake up and right is cruxy. Good cams are available in this section, see the pic for details. After exiting the flake, move right past a small bush and below a whiteish plaque of rock. Climb past 2 bolts on this plaque, pumpy, to a stance. Move right over an arete to finish past 2 additional bolts. You can place a nut prior to moving right over arete if you want.
Location
Start right of
Squid Kid
and left of pitch one of
The Other Road
. Finish just below an obvious rust patch of lichen.
Protection
8 bolts and an assortment of cams from TCUs to a #1 Camalot. See the pic for a rack suggestion. Bring some slings good to reduce drag.
Routes in 3. Trailhead Wall
- 7A New Squid In Town5.11-Trad