Future Shock

Futurist Alvin Toffler, in his 1970 book of the same name, describes this phenomenon as, "too much change in too short a period of time." Unknown to us at the time, we opened this route ground-up, 52 years to-the-day after the Summit Wall saw its first--technical--ascent, via the Merciful Traverse (5.6, D. Bell, C. Giddings, A. Kelner, 1958). During our ascent, we noticed a fast-approaching storm cloud to the southwest, prompting us to sit tight on the prominent ledge atop the second pitch, nearly 2/3 the way up the wall. While searching for a possible escape, we discovered two pitons in a shallow corner--along the most logical line of least resistance--and quickly realized that we'd stumbled upon the virtually-forgotten FA line. One of the pins--a perfectly preserved, soft-iron ring angle--fell out with barely a touch, and so we decided to return the relic to the first ascensionists--if they were still around...

In the end, the weather proved uneventful and we finished the final pitch to the summit. Upon returning to the valley, through a series of customer-related acquaintances via IME, we managed to reunite long-time Wasatch local--and backcountry ski guidebook author--Alexis Kelner with an object he'd not seen in 52 years. Moved by our gesture, Mr. Kelner responded by digging up a copy of an old newspaper clipping, the Deseret News, dated 10 July, 1958, titled, "3 Men Scale Lone Peak On West Side; First Time?" We chose the name Future Shock to remind us of just how much the times have changed, but also of how some things--adventure, boldness and exploration--will always be a part of what we do.

Future Shock begins--approximately--50 feet right of the start to the Open Book. Climb the featured face to an overlap, then follow a clean finger crack and patina holds up and to the climber's right, towards the SW arete. A short, diagonalling traverse gains the south face; follow finger cracks through a stemming corner (.10), then to a belay stance with a white flake. Directly above the belay is a slab with a finger crack; climb it to a stemming corner past a ledge, then continue up more corners to a prominent ledge (.9). From the ledge, climb the obvious, left-facing corner to a two-tiered white roof; follow the handcrack out the roof, then past a large flake and through a low-angled chimney to the summit (.10).

Doubles in fingers to hand-sized pieces are recommended; bring plenty of long slings! All belays require gear.