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Peak Mountain 3

Directissima

FA Eric Bjornstad & Ed Cooper (1960)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Worthwhile and historic option for the adventurous, which climbs the face left of the Saber corner, linking discontinuous cracks. Belay at Saber ledge at the bolted rap anchor. An optional second pitch angles right then up to the summit on typically vague upper Castle terrain. Depending on rope length, you may need a short third pitch to summit.

Location

Access the wall by heading left from the Saber start or do the tougher (~5.9) direct start. The direct start is a slightly overhanging A-shaped alcove with good pro using small cams.

Weekend Rock Washington

has more info and a photo overlay.

Protection

Standard rack to 3", emphasize small cams. Wire brush and adventurous mindset also recommended. Rapping off Saber Ledge requires a 70m rope.