- Edit (TBD)
Description
Approach Via the Durrance approach and head left at the cliff base to reach the SW corner. At the SW corner there are a number of shorter colunms that reach a height of perhaps 100'.
The dihedral at the right hand edge of the right-most of these colums, beginning as a ever-steepening slab is "Rangers Are People Too." The next crack left of this, on the left side of the right-most short column, is the fist pitch of Driect SouthWest.
P1: (5.7, 80')Climb the crack described above for 80' to a ledge with a fixed belay.
P2: (5.11b, 100')This is the route 6 pillars to the right of the dark, left-facing dihedral at the right hand side of the attached photo.Step right on the ledge and get into a left-facing corner with an off-fingers to fingers in the corner, the crux is 25' fromt he top or so- more sustained than it is technically difficult. Belay from the fixed anchors. A single 60M or 70M rope should get you down in 2 raps from here.
P3: (5.9, 150')You need 2 ropes to continue... I have not done the 3rd pitch, but reportedly the climb continues up a crack on the left for a short while before traversing right, to keep the difficulty at 5.9... then continues up for 150' total. From there you can climb one of a few easier systems to reach the top (5.7, 70')
Protection
A good set of nuts and cams, with a few extra cams, particulatly in the .75" to 1.5" range, which is the crux size as well.
Routes in Durrance Approach
- 3Direct Southwest5.11bTrad