- Edit (TBD)
Description
Two pitches of climbing off the Supergrinder ledge. Do Supergrinder/Sidecar to approach.
P1: Climb the right leaning chimney for 2 bolts before moving left into a crack, from the top of the crack patina climbing leads to a belay at a nice small ledge. 11-, 9 bolts. (Ending here makes for a pleasant 3 pitch 11- route.)
P2: A couple of bolts lead to a crux section. Do a surprising weird move to obtain the slightly right leaning flare. Follow this until it thins down to some finger locks and face. Move left at the last bolt, then easy to the mussy anchor. 12-, 12 bolts.
Can be done, just, on a single 70m. 80m is nicer...
Descent: 4 35m rapps. If using an 80m it's possible (with a few feet of easy downclimbing) to make it to the ground in one rapp from the Supergrinder ledge.
Location
Starts off the ledge at the end of Supergrinder pitch 2.
Protection
Bolts, mussy anchors.
Routes in Mustache Wall
- 43Three Amigos5.12-Sport