Chalk Bomb Antics

A very awesome pitch with two variations.

Start at the toe of the arête and make your way up to the roof. Traverse right and up under the roof on thinning holds until you can power up to the money jugs. A tricky mantel leads to 15 feet of easy terrain and a stance. Chalk up and catch your breath for an increasingly cruxy length of climbing that doesn't stop until a nice jug above the chains.

Direct: After the second bolt, find an undercling and clip a high bolt (1/2 inch mechanical). Then make powerful moves straight up through the overhang and join the original route at the jugs.

Named for the fistfulls of chalk heaved at a giant wasp nest to get them to fly away during the first ascent. My apologies for anyone at the cliff that day who may have heard the nonsense but hope you had a good laugh at my expense.

Starts just right of Doug the Subway Fugitive on the Hidden Ledge. There is a belay bolt 8 feet to the right of the anchors. Starting to the right or left of the belay bolt both work.

Quickdraws. 8 bolts and ring-bolt anchor. Clip the third bolt long to avoid rope drag and make sure you have plenty of chalk in case you have to smokescreen some wasps.