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Peak Mountain 3

El Camino Torcido

FA John Fowler, JS, 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Last fall we started up this line thinking it was

Plasma

, relying on a photo-diagram in the 2016 A Granite Guide, but we backed off after finding it loose and dirty, with a kitty litter veneer and unreliable pro.  We later deduced that the 2016 guide's photo-diagram was wrong and

Plasma

actually started about 50 feet to the right – which Drew (who did the FA of

Plasma

) subsequently confirmed.  This spring while we were working on the nearby

Oye Cómo Va

, we took advantage of a fixed rope to scrub this line, producing a good albeit short trad route.  There is a chance that some other wayward party climbed this first thinking it was

Plasma

; if so, let me know and I’ll change this post accordingly.

Start up a slightly-undercut left-leaning crack past down-pointing flakes (some may flex but, as of 2021, seemed trustworthy) to a horizontal break, then move right to a right-trending crack.  Climb the crack until able to smear right to a suitcase-sized knob, then work up past an undercling to a left-leaning crack ending on an oak infested ledge.  Join the right-diagonalling

Bloodsport

above, either calling it a tick at the first set of anchors or continuing to the top of East Gate’s first tier.

Location

Starts 25 feet right and uphill of

Oye Cómo Va.

Protection

Set of nuts and cams from micro to 2 inches.