- Edit (TBD)
Description
Last fall we started up this line thinking it was
Plasma
, relying on a photo-diagram in the 2016 A Granite Guide, but we backed off after finding it loose and dirty, with a kitty litter veneer and unreliable pro. We later deduced that the 2016 guide's photo-diagram was wrong and
Plasma
actually started about 50 feet to the right – which Drew (who did the FA of
Plasma
) subsequently confirmed. This spring while we were working on the nearby
Oye Cómo Va
, we took advantage of a fixed rope to scrub this line, producing a good albeit short trad route. There is a chance that some other wayward party climbed this first thinking it was
Plasma
; if so, let me know and I’ll change this post accordingly.
Start up a slightly-undercut left-leaning crack past down-pointing flakes (some may flex but, as of 2021, seemed trustworthy) to a horizontal break, then move right to a right-trending crack. Climb the crack until able to smear right to a suitcase-sized knob, then work up past an undercling to a left-leaning crack ending on an oak infested ledge. Join the right-diagonalling
Bloodsport
above, either calling it a tick at the first set of anchors or continuing to the top of East Gate’s first tier.
Location
Starts 25 feet right and uphill of
Oye Cómo Va.
Protection
Set of nuts and cams from micro to 2 inches.
Routes in East Gate Buttress
- 6El Camino Torcido5.10cTrad