This Is Your Brain On Jugs

Be prepared to get fried! Gets started on a gateway of big, slopey holds that make for lousy hands but great feet. After the second bolt, climbers can choose to stay left or right of the bolt line. Going right allows you to crank on some great pockets and then pull a small, bulgy roof to small holds to big, killer-jug pockets. Those who choose going left will get to wrestle with a cool layback flake feature to good juggy ledges.

After the fourth and fifth bolts the generous bolting ends as you encounter an honest to God crux that might send you flying out the window like that wacked out chick on that aweful ABC After School Special. Get psyched after ending the crux on a jug, pull another boulder problem and gain a ledge. Get it all back and take on two bolts of arete climbing. Enjoy a pumpy finish with small holds to jugs that will make you wonder if you are gonna make it or not.

Powerful, pumpy climbing with some reachy cruxes - that feel like dynos - but can done in a sexy, static fashion. A good warm-up and a great route for beginning climbers who want to up their game.

Left-most route on The Half Baked Wall.

8 bolts. Sport Anchors. Stick clip the second bolt if you are feeling paranoid.