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Description
Mostly a chimney climb, the crux is the first 15 ft where you stem up on good face holds before squeezing yourself into a narrow constriction. Wriggle your way through the constriction to a rest ledge. from here, the chimney opens up and contains more face holds, making it a bit easier to climb. The back of the crack is slightly dirty, especially after a rain as this is one of the run-off routes for the large ledge above.
Location
Located near the eastern end of the Shady Side, immediately to the right of Monoculture. The route finishes on a large ledge 50 ft up where two oaks provide a rappel.
Protection
A #2 camelot or equivalent protects the early crux. Large cams can be placed at various points on the short route, and there are a few placements for nuts/smaller cams. No fixed anchor so bring small nuts and cams to set one up.
Routes in Shady Side
- 5Uncle Wriggly5.7Trad