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Peak Mountain 3

Bittersweet

FA Dennis Horning & Frank Sanders, Sept. 1977
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is aptly named for the suffering and white knuckled climbing it takes to get to the goods. I believe many have been suckered by the two out of three star rating it was once given only to bail early on (myself included). We broke the first pitch into two since there is an old anchor at a small stance halfway up (where 'My Unsung Hero' goes left). This separates the bad climbing from the good climbing. The latter two thirds of the first pitch would be almost classic status if more accessible.

  1. 5.10+ PG13,

150'

Scramble up easy terrain to gain the crack just left of the overhanging flare of 'Morchella Esculenta'. Struggle to place gear in the pinched seam or just bring some pins, as there are only two remaining. Navigate through lichen, hollow flakes, and thin face climbing to gain a quarter inch bolt. A little higher and the gear gets better just before reaching the bolted anchor. (Either belay here or keep going) Then work through a balancy, flared finger crack that eventually opens to hands. Old anchors will be in the center of the face on the left.

  1. 5.6, 130'

Climb the wide crack/chimney on the left to the Meadows. (We opted out of this one)

Finding a way to rap in on pitch one would be the best way to enjoy the awesome climbing up here. Along with 'My Unsung Hero', that looks enjoyable too. I wouldn't recommend leading the first third.

Location

Far right side of the bowling alley. Immediately left of Morchella Esculenta.

Protection

2 pins

1 bolt

2 bolted anchors

Double rack BD .4 - #2

Single .3 and under, #3

Nuts/RPs