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Peak Mountain 3

Lecherous

FA Andy Knight
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A really fun route with a tenuous start, a pocket, crimps, required sidepulls, and a slabby, possibly nerve-wracking topout.

Climb up to the top-most ledge of the triple-ledge system, clipping the first bolt just below the top ledge.

Start up the vertical bit, wondering when you're going to encounter a hold you feel fully comfortable with.

Eventually, a jug or two present themselves for a brief respite, then it's back to crimping and pulling for a bit.

A brief period of head-scratching ensues, after which more trickery is required to get to and clip the penultimate bolt.

Delicate moves, a reachy clip, and slabby feet lead to the chains.

Location

The middle line on a wall with a triple-ledge system at the wall's base (as opposed to a double-ledge system on the wall downhill). This is the middle line when counting bolt lines at the base, but since the left-most line splits, it is the second-from-right when counting bolt lines at the top.

There is a steeply-sloping, narrow ramp/arete at the base of the vertical bit (above the ledge) that forms a "V" shape, making this fairly easy to identify.

The wall is uphill from the original

Adjective

wall that is encountered immediately after leaving the streambed.

The walk to the wall is approximately 7 to 10 minutes from the stream bed.

The wall is bordered on each side by a 15-foot evergreen tree; the wall downhill with which this wall might be confused is wider and bordered by 50-foot evergreens.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchors.

The anchors are shared with

Punitive

, a .12a to the left.