- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route ascends the cleft between the two big chunks of the Castle itself. Look for a big chimney feature in a right-facing flake feature directly below some blocky roofs. All pitches are between 100' & 140'.
P1, 5.8. Chimney your way up miscellaneous stuff for about 125' to a ledge.
P2, 5.9-. Follow the main corner/cracks up and slightly leftwards to a belay ledge.
P3. Head up & right across the main chimney system to more a more appealing looking crack. Continue up to a roof which is passed on the right side (crux) and then up to a belay.
P4. Head left towards a right-facing corner and then up a crack system to the final slabs.
Location
The major chimney system that splits the main crag halfway between
The Nose
route and the big, tree filled gully.
Protection
Gear to 6".
Routes in The Castle
- 12Great Chimney Route5.9-Trad