Black Heads

This was the first route (9/78)on this wall between Desperate Straights and The Tube. I originally started up the Skinheads line. A big featured knob between Skinheads bolts 2 and 3 linked to the upper knobs. I tied off this knob,mantled and stood up on it. Before I could drill my first bolt, the knob sheared off flush with the face. I didn't ground fall because I had tied off a high oak branch. After crashing into the tree, I decided the line was fucked so I lead out left. Start at the oak tree left of Skinheads. Climb up and out of the tree and traverse left to a bolt. Traverse left (.10a) then up to a second bolt. Go right and up to the left end of a roof. Climb roof at bolt (A0 on FA)(Walt Shipley FFA 5.11) and up to bolt. Traverse right and up to 2nd crux (FA 5.11). Climb to ramp and bolt belay. The roof lunge is only doable by tall people. Ok to rebolt this route - I won't because my lunge is 8" short.

5 - 1/4" bolts , slung knobs plus nuts/cams at roof