I think the nature of the upper crux on this route may have changed, making it harder and more dangerous than it was previously.

The first crux (which comes within the first 20-30 feet or so) is fantastic and engaging mid-11 climbing. The middle third of this route is cruiser, which is nice because there is a runout involved.

Eventually you will reach a large ledge below the beautiful, yet dicey headwall. Sidepulls and underclings will get you through the first bolt past the ledge. Then you'll use a combination of underclings, crystally nubbins, and crimps to traverse past the second bolt towards the left arete, which you'll then take to the anchor.

There is a potential to "deck" onto the ledge system while trying to gain the second bolt on the headwall. The feet are noticeably worse here than elsewhere on the route and some of the features are suspect. Be careful about the holds you decide to use, as breakage could result in you hitting the ledge below.

Note: there is a large and obvious rock scar that I believe may have functioned as a useful foot when this was originally graded at 11c (as it is listed in Tod Anderson's guidebook). As it stands, I think this portion of the route may qualify as an easier 12, though I was unwilling to commit to the entire sequence on lead, and so I hesitate to assign it a more exact grade.

Power Window

Elbow Grease

All Nighter

The Burn

A Briefing

The Signal

The Rub

The Finger

The Grub

The Bird

Grease Monkey

Odd Job

Start up the corner to reach some steep cracks and the crux. Grind your way up to a ledge a bit up and right of the anchor for

Odd Job

and

Grease Monkey

. If you so desire, you can continue on to the upper crux of

All Nighter

making for a harder direct start to the pitch.

Staring just left of

Odd Job

, make a fun big move right off the ground, and work your way up fairly easy terrain to a ledge. The route can end here at 10b using the anchor for

Odd Job

(7 bolts) or continue up into a crystal bulge and the crux near the top.

This is an odd one. Clip the first bolt, and decide on starting to the right (crimp awkward lieback) or left (awkward crack) start. Follow easier face to the shared anchor.

A finger crack splits a featured wall on the left side of the bolted 5.7 chimney (Dark Wing). Pull the bulge, and follow the finger-hands crack to the shared anchor.

The Signal is still shedding some pebbles. This is the leftmost bolted line on the east face of the finger. A featured face leads to a thin, undercling flake. Follow the arete right to the anchor.

Climb fractured terrain/crack right of The Digit. I enjoyed this route more than The Digit.

From the mid-level ledge on the south side of the Finger Fin/ East Face Workman's, follow a crack feature up to the anchors.

Climb the grubby hand crack between

The Signal

and

The Burn

. The first awkward bulge is the crux; then it's easy terrain to the top. Use the anchors for the aforementioned routes to descend.

Clip the first bolt from the mid-ledge, and step down a move or two. Pull sequential crimps before gaining the arete. Gaining the arete earlier may drop the grade.

It may be short, but this one has some amazing movement! Getting off the ground is the first crux with some reachy climbing to get the flake. Cruise the flake to reach a true whirlwind of a crux at the final bulge. It is still a bit dirty up high, but this guy is very worth your time if you are here.

This is a shorty with some interesting climbing. Work your way up to some left-facing flake systems to reach parallel cracks at which delicate climbing pays dividends. The finish busts out a steep but short crack system to the ledge. Some of the lower flakes are a bit suspect, so tread carefully.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Workman's Wall