Balancey and smeary. Not a lot of huge jugs. Lots of slopers and side pulls.

Molly's Stealthy Ride

Baby Bear

Moai Crack

The Jack Attack

Get A Whiff Of These Hands

The Kingdom

Unknown 5.8

Carnivore Salad

Alluvial Ecstasy

"5.9" Corner

Pylon Pump

In Spite of Ourselves

Balcony Route

Substandard

Train to Busan

Unknown 5.11a

Unknown Route

Hello Kitty

Sweeping with Mr. Brownstone

Gopher Pancake

GSW - Left

Drive-By Shooting

Marvelous

Rumble Strip

White Panda

Beartrap Jam

The Noses Right Off Our Faces

10 Hits Too Many

Slope on a Rope

P1: Climb the runout seam just right of Substandard for ~30', then angle right. Two bolts below the roof. Chains on large ledge. Probably best toproped. Fun pitch!

P2: 5.9: Climb to the first bolt, and then move to the right on gear the rest of the way to chains.

P2 (alternate) 5.11a: Climb the bolted line directly above the belay.

Bolts and chains are reportedly 25 years old. I thought they seemed ok.

Crack starts wide (crux) and narrows up top. Arete has some good holds to offer. After the crack ends, easy ledgy terrain to the chains. If climbed direct, it is runout, but if you step right there are some placements to be had, albeit with some long slings.

Look for the chains atop the first pitch. 60 meter rope is adequate.

p1 Begin in a small corner and climb a short handcrack to easier climbing and chains up and right

p2 Climb up and mostly traverse right about 20 feet to a sloping ledge. Climb a up a crack 5.9 (crux move) to a runout groove like formation to a nice ledge with chains.

p3 Great pitch. Climb the corner up to a roof with chains above the roof.

Hop in the flaring "chimney" 20ft downslope from Baby Bear 5.8,  take the handcrack to the top.

Gear anchor for 2nd, easy walkoff.

Climb was fun, was not in guidebook or MP give it a go!

The direct start goes up the ramp with the thin crack that trends right and is the most difficult option. You also have the choice of unprotected (10ft, but easy) face climbing on the right side of the crack. The last option is to skip this completely and traverse in from the right on the ledge. Once established on the ledge, follow the intermittent cracks on the left side of the arete to the top. Stay close to the arete as you head up and go to the right side of the arete once to navigate a bulge. Shortly after the bulge, enjoy some really sweet pockets as you continue to feel more and more exposed.

Fairly standard Madison river climbing. Interesting features, but nothing to write home about. Left of two routes up here.

Message me if you know route name/FA.

Crux down low by first bolt. First moves are kind of exposed over an extra 10 foot drop to your right. Stick clip the first bolt if not totally comfortable at the grade.

Low angle corner finger crack. What's the opposite of sandbagging? This is it.

Descent:

Rappel route.

Short, stout, slightly overhanging route. East facing, thus shaded after noon.

Climb 30' up to a large roof. Climb the hand crack directly through the roof (crux) to easier ground above. Continue up until you reach the anchors.

The right most of the two side-by-side sport lines, this climb gets started with a inobvious crux right off the ground. After the 2nd bolt, the climbing eases, until a reachy move after the roof. There are a couple spots where falling could be bad on this route, so don't get complacent. Although it is entirely bolted, it isn't exactly a sport route in the modern sense.

P1: Climb the crack into the left facing dihedral. Some easier terrain brings you to the large belay ledge with chains. (5.7)

P2: Move left and up into the harder to protect upper crack system with some slopey face holds. Follow this to chains. (5.8)

Can be done as 1 long pitch.

Clip the first bolt and work right to the jugs at the second bolt. After clipping the second bolt, make the first crux move and enjoy a nice rest at the third bolt. From here, move up to the fourth and fifth bolts via a crimp ladder and decide which second crux you want to tackle. Either head straight up to the anchor, or traverse left along the roof (easier, but more moves).

Crux is pulling the roof.

Message me if you know route name/FA.

Begin in the wide crack and climb up to the face. Pro is good on the face, and good foot and hand jams. Climb to the easy section above which has some loose rock. Have someone follow and walk off. Gear anchor is best probably 10 feet past the flat section.

Stick clip recommended. Start just left of a long horizontal sloper rail on edges. Launch into a tough boulder problem on small crimps and ambiguous holds with good feet. Move up and right to gain some cool jug rail features. Get a rest, do a few more hard moves, then climb easier, but pumpy terrain to the anchors.

An alternate, easier start: Traverse leftward to the second bolt (rest jug) from higher up the gully. This skips the crux, brings the climb down to ~5.10+, and is still safe.

Since this is a new route, be aware there is a higher than average chance for loose rock. Wear a helmet.

When GP and CS de-grit, they might compete for the best sport lines of the grade in the area. A great warm up on positive, incut edges.

Slightly easier variation to GSW. Face climb past two bolts, then move into the cruiser finger crack. One more bolt above the crack, then move right and finish up on shared bolts with GSW.

Descent:

Rappel route.

This mostly bolted route follows the large corner uphill and right of the GSW routes. Pull the large roof by traversing left on awesome holds, then continue up the dihedral above. If you are comfortable with runout easy climbing, there is no need for gear. Otherwise, bring something in the finger to thin hands range.

As with other climbs in this area, slopey holds galore.

Great steep hand crack down low, characteristic Winter Wall area slopers up top. More sustained down low than the left variation.

Descent:

Rappel route.

This route was really hard for me but extremely enjoyable for the two people that I know that have climbed it that onsight the grade. Theres a lower crux and another right before the chains.

Start with some easy stemming to get to the first bolt. Make a few reachy moves through horizontals to gain the shallow corner. Fire the crux, then pull onto the slab and blunt arete above for an easy, enjoyable romp to the anchor. The lower part seeps sometimes, but the holds that are generally wet are big, so it is worth a go.

The overhanging nature of this route mostly protects the belayer, but since this is a new route, be aware there is a higher than average chance for loose rock. Wear a helmet.

Start up a right facing corner with a fixed piton in it. Follow the crack system up to a small bush at the base of a left facing corner. Scooch your way up the easy offwidth (#4 protects, watch out for bird poo) with good hands on the arete. Traverse left to chains.

Descent:

Rappel route.

Short but sweet hand crack that starts under the large roof and escapes right. Bottom third is a bit scruffy, followed by about 15 feet of vertical hand crack. Turn the lip and the last third is low 5th class to the chains. An unknown route given this name in the more recent Vassilopoulos guide.

This climb scared me until I climbed it. Exiting the dihedral on to the airy face has one of the coolest sequences ever. If its hard, you are missing the thank-god hold.

Description

Protection

Routes in Winter Wall