Nice wide crack with decent hands the whole way. Can often be wet, but is a good rout for those looking to climb wider cracks at an easier grade.

Talkin Bout Mountain Dews Baby

For Short People Only

I Am a Cam

Hyper-Gamma Spaces

The Lemon Merchant

Butterfingers

In Your Head

The Cave Route

Rhythm Roof

Go Ballistic

Black Planet

Seven Wishes

Sugarloaf Arete

Sadturn

A Flake Called Lee

Shadow Warrior

Bloodguard

White Quartz Wielder

Space Dwarves

Butterfingers Right

Cording

Start on same holds as Walk This Way, but continue direct through the first block roof instead of stepping left.  Follow the wide crack up left of the roof towards easier terrain.  Move towards the inside corner and climb the left-facing blocks to the flat platform at the top.  Good holds. 

  beta comes from "Climb Maryland!" by Mark "Indy" Kochte.

An excellent route for beginners on toprope, or for beginning trad leaders.  The first 20 feet are the hardest part.  There is a microwave-sized loose block midway up the boulder that is a little sketchy to stand on.

The route starts off in a small chimney that narrows toward the top. This is the crux of the route. Once you pass the chimney the route is an easy, slabby climb.

Start at the corner under the main roof.  Move up and through the blocky roof between the crack-traverses of Space Dwarves and Shadow Warrior, using thin cracks to gain easier terrain up high.  The climb is basically done after the roof, with ledges and blocks finishing the route.

Climb the face just LEFT of the 'White Quartz Wielder' route, finish on left side of roof.

Climb the broken blocky arete through a series of roofs to the top. Another variation climbs the face to the right and traverses left to the arete following a horizontal crack that regularly opens up creating deep jugs.

The crux is protecting and pulling the roof.  This is a three move high ball boulder problem, which if done on lead is uber heady because the pro below the roof that you can get isn't that good. 

  Would not recommend this route for newer trad leaders.

The Cave Route is fun and can get pretty tight near the top. Climbing with a pack is not the best idea. The crux is certainly at the top of the cave where you have to squeeze your way out. There is a good belay anchor off a tree trunk to belay your partner up if needed. The remainder of the climb is class 4. Roping up is opitional for the half ass second pitch.

Climb up under the roof angling right to a notch and up and over. There are big jugs above the lip.

This climb starts with a dynamic move off of one of two underclings to a wide horizontal pocket/rail. Traversing left on your hands your next move is to a fingerlock on the left. Using and hands or feet on the boulder in the down climb to climber's left brings this down to a 5.9+. Continue to the top.

Real fun face Climb! a bald patch left of a purple splotch midwall is the crux (arete off)... tons of variations to make this easier.

climb up and over the overhang/roof in the chimney, and find your self on a large ledge (you can also bypass the overhang by working your way around to the far left then moving back above it). follow the notch and crack to the right of "rhythm roof". try not to go to far right, as it's an easy way to avoid the crux. on a nice weekend be prepared to stand in line to climb this gem.

Straight forward and blocky arete, really fun one to hit since your top rope is gonna already be set up next to it

Start to the right of the cave under a roof and a right leaning crack that goes out to the arête.  Follow the crack and turn the corner onto the face.  Move up to beneath a small overhang and work out left around the overhang.  Cruise up easier rock to the top. 

  Often overlooked but a great route that protects fairly well, though the moves left around the overhang will have you above your gear a bit.

To the right of Black Planet. It runs up the set of vertical flakes and through a fun roof pull. Its a contrived route which isnt very difficult but is good for practicing some off-nominal flake protection placements.

The first 30 feet are classic.  After you get past the flake, it becomes a 5.2 walk-up.

Climb up the ramp under the Hyper-Gamma-Spaces roof.  Awkwardly stem and mantle your way up into the corner under the roof and delicately step right around the roof.  Once on the face, the climbing gets substantially easier.

Start at the center of a blank face, move up to a quartz vein then move left to a broken crack system. Hand traverse back right at the ledge, then move up through a fun series of small roofs.

The crack to the left of Bloodguard. Follow the crack up to the roof then pull the roof to the right of the small crack under the roof.

Start as for Butterfingers. Instead of taking the crack straight up after pulling the crux roof, work right on the slab and climb the thin dihedral through another roof. Easy finish to the top from there. 

  Adds another delicate/awkward crux to Butterfingers on thin holds and good smears.

Climb the crack system to the right of Bloodguard. Easy climbing. Great for new trad leaders to practice on.There's an additional 5.6 variation that traverses left under the first roof to the Bloodguard line and shares an anchor with it.

From the green trail this is the first wall you come to on your right. at 120 feet of broken rock cliff that one can find climbs upwards of 50 feet (most average 30 to 40 though). This area is prone to the ravens closure, as they like to nest on Butterfingers.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Middle Earth