A good route that still has a few flakes to shed. We cleaned a few, but a few more scraps will undoubtedly fall on future ascents.

This is a a good 65' pitch to a bolted anchor that is best continued directly up a 5.0 slab to Bending Nails (5.7) or

Finish Carpenter

(5.9) or merged right though

Antifreeze

to The Big Narrow for ~100' and then continued into '

The Finish Carpenter

for 160'(?) of quality climbing.

Start off in the right-facing, right-leaning corner off of the leftmost of two single bolt and gear belays. This is the center of 3 such corners and 2-such bolts. The right most is

Antifreeze

(10a) and the rightmost, hanging overhead 15 feet or so is

The Tooth

, (10d). Climb up on continuous jams in hands and flares with good feet and good gear to a flaring tight hands jamming crux (5.9-) and then past the end of the corner onto a slab after 20 meters.  A bolted anchor is visible if you are planning to retreat down to climb another opening pitch.

If not going right back down for

The Tooth

or

AntiFreeze

, then continue onward up the 5.0 slab and beyond, or tend right past the end of

Antifreeze

to merge with The Big Narrow, and follow those cracks (moderate) to a ledge, now 100' over the belay or so.... Cross some blocks on a ledge and continue up a thin-hands right facing corner (

Finish Carpenter

, 5.9-) to the blocky ledge of the rock reached first via the approach.

Emissions Testing

Antifreeze

Handy Man

Auto Repair

Finish Carpenter

Fluid Mechanics

Bending Nails

The Tooth

Mr. Goodwrench

Little Narrows

A good route on great rock with bad lichen. It needs a good clean brushing! This route merits 2 stars as is and has potential for 3 if it gets cleaned up.  The climb is even better if finished via

Auto Repair

in a single 140' pitch.  Auto Repair is already clean....

From the single bolt belay stance (backed up by gear), reach up and left out of a corner to clip an bolt then move over to a jug (hard for short people).  Mantle the jug (balancy) then clip another bolt before moving up onto the slab (crux) and following a line of bolts to a ledge with an anchor- your starting point.  All of the hard climbing is on clean rock, but the upper slab was not brushed down other than the few necessary holds. Cleaning this would produce a nicer climb.

Belay at the anchor, or continue ON GEAR (include a few fist+ sized pieces if you are squeamish) on

Auto Repair

(5.7+).

A good 65' pitch, better if linked into 'The Big Narrow' for 100' and best of all if then continued into '

The Finish Carpenter

' for 160'(?) of quality climbing.

Start off in the right-facing, right-leaning corner off of a single bolt and gear belay. This is the right-most of 3 such corners and 2-such bolts. Climb up on continuously good locks and good gear to the end of the crack. You will see an anchor out left on the low angle slab that can be reached after 20 meters, but why stop there?

Continue onward tending right to merge with The Big Narrow, and follow those cracks (moderate) to a ledge, now 100' over the belay or so.... Cross some blocks on a ledge and continue up a thin-hands right-facing corner (

Finish Carpenter

, 5.9-) to the blocky ledge of the rock reached first via the approach.  Savor the nice long pitch as you belay up your partner.

An interesting climb on good rock, but needs a little cleaning yet. Start at the leftmost bolt-and-gear belay at the base of Tier Two, having rapped in from the standard ledge atop Tier Three to the slab chains, then down and left of the slab chains to the comfortable belay ledge.

From there, you will be looking just right up into

Emissions Testing

corner, or up into the shallow, hanging dihedral of

The Tooth

.  Move left to a crack as for

The Tooth

and start climbing, but instead of coming out right around the blunt corner and into the hanging dihedral of

The Tooth

, stay left, reaching a solid flake that bends left and becomes a secure hand traverse for 20 feet or so.  Climb this feature on solid hands, passing a somewhat annoying bush midway. Continue up cracks in a corner for the remainder of perhaps 90 feet in all to a belay ledge with a bolt.

You can continue directly up on Job Site (5.7, not very clean yet) or belay here.

The best climbing is to be had by belaying here or one station to the left on the same ledge, then doing a second pitch consisting of

Mr. Goodwrench

continuing into

Auto Repair

. (150', 5.10-, take a 4" cam.)

This is the most basic summit pitch on the Mechanical Man and is worth doing. The rock is pretty good, but straightforward protection is lacking in a place or two.

Work up the series of corners as described below and up over the summit to the belay/rap anchors on the West side of the summit spire.

A good pitch with good rock and good protection, but a little short if done alone. Combined with one of the dihedral pitches on Tier Two as a single pitch, this can be a 3-star climb.

Start this climb from

Antifreeze

,

Emission Testing

,

The Tooth

, or do it on its own. For the former, rap to the bolted slab anchor and then down to the starting ledge/bolt belays of those routes, or for the latter, rap down and hard to the right from the standard rap station and stop on a blocky ledge below the obvious corner.

Climb up and back to the same anchor or belay on large boulders with a cordalette.

A route with a little of everything from jams to liebacks to chimney to face. The route is clean hard rock and takes good pro, if you bring a few wider pieces. Otherwise, the harder climbing is slightly runout, but perhaps only 5.8-. The route is fun and worth doing to summit the tower.

An OK route that provides an alternate place to link up Tier 2 to Tier 3 other than

Finish Carpenter

. This climb is worth doing once and can be anywhere between PG-13 and X rated, depending on how you opt to finish it.

From the slab belay on the middle of Tier Two, climb the 5.0 slab to reach a network of curving cracks and flakes that shatter the bottom of the more vertical wall. Start up, place some protection for a few meters, then dodge left into other cracks (and protection) or go up and right into a slightly scooped face on a clean slab (no protection) and up to the rap anchor on the starting ledge on the approach.

This is the hardest corner on the second tier and a good climb with continuously insecure stances, but great gear and reasonable rests.

Go up and left from the belay as if to climb on Handy Man, but quickly correct the course, placing a few stoppers below and hanging flake, and stepping out and right around a blunt arete and into a hanging dihedral.  Place a 3" cam in the hanging corner and awkwardly power up into it (5.10+, good gear).  Decide between continuous movement, or stopping at awkward stances for reasonably good gear the rest of the way up the corner. Arrive at the top of the corner, fiddle in a few confidence pieces, then move up slopers on an off-vertical wall (psychological crux?) to clip a bolt on the slab, and go to the bolted anchor.  Finish from there as for

Emissions Testing

or

Antifreeze

for a second pitch, or one long quality pitch.  There may be some considerable drag if you do not belay before the ledge atop the Third Tier.

This is the longest single pitch on Mechanical Man, ascending the longest part of Tier 2 for over 100' and easily linking into 'Finish Carpenter' for an additional 50' of excellent climber, for almost 200' in total.

The route starts off on some moderate, stopper-protected, crack moves to reach a series of 4 bolts (crux face climbing) before climbing some moderate rock leading up to 5.8- cracks and corners. These continue to ascend to the base of Finish Carpenter, which is climbed to a slung-block belay. You could continue to the bolts and chains on the standard Tier 3 rap anchor, but drag and rope wear might be problematic at that angle, as it is far off to the side.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mechanical Man