Classic pockets and slopers. The main Crux is the powerful sloper when you start going up, after the two pocket cross-through. Stay low on the deep pockets.

Complete traverse

The Geisha

Geisha Arete

Gordyno

Main Line Right

Undercling Traverse

Main Line Center

Crack Problem

Main Overhang Warmup

Spension Tension

Energy Club

Hello Panda

Walk the Line Stand

Start as far right as you want on the huge undercling feature and move left through fun and technical movement until topping out at the boulder's left arete.

Aesthetic short problem. A sit start on terrible holds (some of the original start holds have broken) lead up a gently overhanging face with better but still bad holds culminating in a dyno to a jug and a slightly chossy top out.

Sit start with left hand in the good pocket on the arete to the right of Geisha's start holds and right hand in a small finger pocket. Bust up and around the arete using a combination of pinch, sloper, or crimp action; traversing left and finishing on the Geisha's topout seems to maintain the grade.Manufacturing holds is UNACCEPTABLE.

Fling yourself horizontally from nice edges on a dubious ledge to a fatty undercling, finishing up a few chill moves on quality rock. Could you forego the dyno and do this climb with strength and tact? Probably, but it would be a hell of a lot less good of a line. Commit!

Start with hands matched on a jug in the furthest back part of the right side of the overhang, just to the left of the tree if viewed from the trail. Make a few moves up and left to establish on the somewhat positive rail, then traverse up and right to a smooth mantle on a jug, which may have the tree giving you a ticklish spot.It seems that "complete traverse" on this page is a reference to the very flowy, left most logical start of this problem.

A classic for the area. Start low on good pockets in the middle of the overhang and set up for a dynamic move to some slopey jugs about midway up the boulder. From here move up into a good jam in the flaring crack near the roof and float out the roof to compression near the end. Lock off, tickle the nipple, and hit the top!May contain morpho moves.

Start on good holds and work up the gently overhanging crack-ish problem on excellent rock to a classic mantle top out.

Sit start from jaggy shelf below crack on far right side of the main overhang. Use another ledge and then the crack to get your feet on the second good ledge then exit as you wish, via the jugs on the right, the crack up the center, or by easily scrambling up on the right. 

Start low on rail at the bottom right side of the block. Traverse slopers and crimps  

Sit start low and to the right. I started on a good sloper but you could start even farther over on crimps. Work left on good holds with a couple big moves to a sloper. From there keep working left on underclings and pockets and top out when able to.

Overhanging arete, sit start low and left. Move up and right to the edge of the boulder, pull the lip and top it out.

Stand start and climb to the horizontal crack near the top using a pinch and an undercling, maybe even a high right facing sidepull. From here locate holds on the lip and/ or far arete and pull onto the slab. There is an existing sit start that is much harder.Manufacturing holds is UNACCEPTABLE.

A secluded and generally shady area about 20 minutes from Santa Fe. There are rarely any other climbers, but often hikers. Rock varies from excellent to total choss with problems ranging from V0 to V10 spread all along the canyon and the surrounding hillsides.

The first area encountered includes an enormous, sandstone overhang with many variations. In the spring the stream can affect low starts. Opposite of the main overhang is a large boulder with several slab problems on the south side and the excellent Hello Panda  on the northern arete. Next to that boulder is another massive boulder with some high consequence, low 5th class slabs, some problems with chipped holds, and an excellent overhanging, crack-ish V3 problem on the west side. 

On the northern hillside above the main area is a tall band of rock with a few problems of varying quality, including The Geisha (V9).

About 250 yards up the trail and 10 feet off the trail to the right is the mega classic V5 overhanging traverse, Energy Club. Up on the southern hillside from the main area (traverse up the hillside from the parking lot) is another zone with at least a dozen problems on mostly great rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Apache Canyon (a.k.a. Grasshopper Canyon) Bouldering