Climb up a short corner system to the base of some suspect flakes below a splitter finger crack. Climb the suspect flakes, to an amazing sequence of perfect finger locks (crux). Climb some more cracks to some fun face moves protected by a few bolts and head left before the anchors. Clip into the anchors of Skeltons on the way down.

Star Search

Under Cover

Secret Ceiling

Our Little Secret

My dirty secret

River of Love

Triple Jeopardy

Skeletons in the Closet

H.I.P.S. (Hidden in Plain Sight)

A lazer cut splitter out a huge roof! At 20 feet dead horizontal, this climb is a contender for one of the longest roof cracks in Pine Creek!

Start in the corner of Star Search. From the ledge follow the slabby corner past an old piton(?) to the base of the GIANT roof. Place gear as far out as you can before committing to the business. Make your way out the perfect crack with the help of only a couple of foot holds to the dramatic finish as the crack narrows to smaller than fingers. Continue on cracks traversing right to the anchor of Skeletons in the Closet, lower off. Cleaning is difficult! Probably best to clean the pitch on TR.

Climb the first half of My Dirty Secret (gear to 2") and belay at the mid anchor. Plug in a cam above the anchor and start up the steep headwall. Fun face climbing and some sharp finger locks will bring you to a small roof split by two cracks. Choose the left one for more of a challenge. It's a 35 meter lower from the base of My Dirty Secret.

A great mixed climb that is mostly bolted (4 out of 5 stars for the climbing). The route is mixed as far as protection (bolts and gear) as well as the climbing itself... mantles, friction, liebacking, hand and foot jamming and even steep jug hauling are all thrown in. From the base the route is rather intimidating but with closely spaced bolts the route is mostly safe. Unfortunately the crux of the route is trying to find and place sound gear while at the most strenuous, steep, and intimidating section of the route. After a fair amount of effort and a couple of questionable pieces I finally managed to get a piece I was willing to climb past. Above, placing gear continued to be awkward and strenuous and never seemed ideal but the last bolt is soon reached and then the anchor is just a few pulls and smears away.

Awesome varied crack climb but with often less than stellar rock. In other words, do this route but make sure you do it with an attentive, loose rock savvey partner and wear your helmets, especially the belayer. The route is not called Dirty Secret for nothing but it is great climbing none the less. It's a giant left facing corner that goes on and on. Can be done in one or two pitches. Would be great to see this thing get more traffic and maybe a little cleaning up.  The hardest moves for me were at the second bolt right before the first anchor getting to the ledge where the crack in the corner kinda seams out. Above the first anchor a ways there is a blank seeming section  with tricky pro but the holds are incut and it turns out to be not so bad. Then higher my partner for the day found a steep tight hands section cruxy. The pitch ends at a 2 mussy anchor. We had a 70 but I think 2 raps with a 60 would get you down.

Pitch 1: Book gives 10C, 6 bolts (book says 5). "Climb the ever steepening slab. Bolt anchor".

I'd also add that the first bolt is probably 8 meters up.

Pitch 2: 11B, 4 bolts. "Bust hard moves left off the anchor. Bolt anchor".

I'd also add to this that the moves out left aren't too hard, the difficulty comes in getting established on the 3rd bolt after the anchor.

The first pitch felt harder than 10c for sure, came looking for opinions and found no route had been added yet.

Start with a powerful bouldery move to thin hand crack. Continue up splitter crack to a ledge and cop a rest. The climb then becomes steep with plentiful slammer hand jams then narrows to fingers. Bolted anchor shared with Our Little Secret.

Start in a hand crack just left of the arete to the right of the giant rectangular roof. Climb through a small triangular roof to another hand crack, clip a bolt and make a neat move into a chimney clipping 4 more bolts to the anchor.

Start with a short boulder problem protected by a bolt to get established in a low angle finger crack. Climb the crack, traverse out the roof to the right and perform a tricky mantel to get established in a flared crack. Clip your way up the crack to a final crux move that will reward those with good footwork. Awesome route.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Secret Cliffs