Sit start with both hands compressing the opposing arêtes.  From there, fall into the jug, gain the lip, then move left through the sharp bumps which access the juggy arête and finish.

The first move is the toughest, just compress and fall into the jug.  The initial right hand hold has a few small edges that make a big difference.

Tobacco War

Love Juice

Earned Enemy

Earned Enemy climbs a sharply featured prow over a perfect landing.

Stand start with hands matched on the large undercling. From there, move out right and match hands on the large, sloping jug. Then work straight up (crux) with a big left hand to the sharp, but good holds. Match hands again, throw a high right heel, and finish it on the jugs.

The crux involves some tricky but interesting footwork. Toe-hooking with a right foot out to the right allows the left hand throw to happen (without ripping your fingers off). Nonetheless, I would still recommend taping most of your left hand. The hold is sharp, and unless you're very tall, the feet are going to cut.

Sit start with a great right hand hueco. From there, gain the rail, follow it right to the prow, and finish up the slab.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Love Juice Boulder