Viewed from Hinkey Summit, a long wide and prominent horizontal cleft or division intersects the very top of this west facing consolidated slab. The climbing on the Cleft seems to be a bit more compact than on the Hinkey Hop.Named after the Melarkey Street in Winnemucca which eventually takes you out of town to Paradise Valley, the Cleft is further demarcated by a big vertical runnel or gully that splits the Cleft into a North Wall and a South Wall.This is on the shorter North Wall. Pitch #1: Start following bolts about 10m to the left (north) of the vertical water runnel. Climb up pocketed and edgy features to a nice ledge (Boulder Ledge) and 3 bolt belay. 5.7, 30m, 10 bolts.Pitch #2: Veer left up a ramp like feature following more pockets and continue straight up passing a right leaning bulge to a two-bolt belay on a ledge with a tree. 5.8, 30m, 11 bolts.Pitch #3: EZ scrambling over broken up terrain to a two bolt belay or continue on easy ground to the very top of the northern Cleft. 5.3, 25m 3 bolts.Although the route is equipped for rappel, it is very easy, casual and much more logical to walk off the back side.

Melarkey Street

Paiute Pockets

This starts on about the lowest point of the Southern Wall of the Cleft on the right side of the wall. Pass by a "corridor" of rock and the bolted route starts on a small rise above the rock corridor.Pitch #1: Starts low angle and pocketed and then pass a well protected chossy roof and continue up until reaching the two-bolt belay "spike" ledge. 5.8/9, 35m, 13 bolts.Pitch #2: Delicate traverse to the right and into a steep pocketed water streak section that despite still a fair amount of moss, is very fun and unique. Belay at a semi-hanging two-bolt belay. 5.8, 30m, 12 bolts.Pitch #3: Straight up through yet again another wondrous pocketed section, then trend left following bolts and a bit of moss to the two-bolt belay at the "Giant Scoop". 5.7, 30m, 13 bolts.Pitch #4: Continue up the arete for a few 5.8 thin moves and turn the corner to much easier (5.5) pocketed lower angle climbing. The holds are huge! Pass the two-bolt belay to a giant ledge and essentially the end of the climbing, Two bolt belay.  5.7, 40m, 17 bolts.Pitch #5: Move 15m to the left into the cleft of rock and scramble up a few final moves to a two-bolt belay. 3rd class, 10m, 2 bolts.Follow cairns up the final slabs to the east and into the easy descent gully behind The Cleft. The route is also equipped for rappel but it is again more logical to walk off.  

The Cleft is easily spotted on the approach drive to Hinkey Summit. The rock is pleasantly pocketed and perhaps more solid than the rock found on the Hinkey Hop (with the obvious arch to the left of Solid Silver).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Cleft